In ancient Chinese thought, the earth was envisioned as a square, with the sky as a dome above it. At the sky’s apex was a door to heaven, a portal connecting God and man to maintain cosmic order. Chinese artisans rendered this idealized view of the universe in jade, bronze mirrors, paintings and dress.
The cloud collar (yunjian) was introduced as early as the Tang period (618-907) as a detachable garment that emphasized the robe’s neck area as the “sky gate” to heaven. Later examples feature decorated lobes — usually four but sometimes eight — pointing in the four cardinal directions. This pattern was gradually integrated into Buddhist mandalas, tent roofs, helmets, porcelain, carpets and other arts, reflecting its enduring symbolic significance and decorative value.
By the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the cloud collar had become purely ornamental, and its deeper symbolism was largely forgotten. During this period, Chinese court costume became codified to underscore imperial power. Women wore cloud collars as informal attire, probably over different sets of clothing. These collars were embroidered with auspicious imagery to reflect cultural refinement.
This elaborately embroidered example evokes spring through designs in satin stitch, stem stitch, French knot and couching on a satin ground. Magnolias, peonies, orchids and fungi suggest wealth and good luck. Amid this flora lurk cicadas, representing long life, and a praying mantis, the cicada’s tenacious predator.
