Women lived restricted lives in Joseon dynasty Korea (1392–1910), shaped by Confucian principles such as modesty, obedience and virtue. At home, upper-class women occupied separate quarters from men; outside it, their movements were tightly restricted. Women concentrated on household tasks, including making clothes, bedding and wrapping cloths.
Known as “bojagi,” wrapping cloths were part of everyday life during this period. Made of silk, ramie or cotton in one or two layers, these square textiles were used to wrap, cover or carry objects of all sizes. Court bojagi (gung po) were typically fashioned from a single piece of cloth by artisans in the Office of Royal Necessities. Bojagi used outside the court (min bo) were made by women at home, who assembled small pieces of cloth into a striking patchwork (jogak po).
Frugality was an important Joseon value, so women saved scraps of fabric from making their family’s clothes to create jogak po. No two cloths were identical. Some were visibly seamed on the front, others on the back in the manner familiar to quilters worldwide. Brides customarily received bojagi made by their mothers, grandmothers and aunts, who stitched their wishes for luck and good fortune into each piece.
The strong complementary colors of traditional Korean dress are reflected in this 20th-century “sang bo,” a wrapping cloth used to cover serving trays. Sang bo included a central tab for easy lifting and were typically lined with oiled paper to protect the fabric. Many were never used and became family heirlooms — tangible signs of their makers’ good wishes.
Details of works by Gisan, (from left to right) “Painting of Woman and Girl Making Thread,” “Painting of Woman Weaving” and “Painting of Woman Making Skeins,” Korea, c.1885-1910. Royal Ontario Museum.
