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All Contemporary

Lia Cook’s “Coptic Manga”

Lia Cook (American, b. 1942), “Coptic Manga” (detail), 2012. Cotton and rayon, handwoven on a TC1 (digital Jacquard loom), 206 x 127 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 2017.17.1. Anonymous gift. © Lia Cook.

Lia Cook is a pioneer of the modern fiber arts movement. Born and raised in California, she studied political science at UC Berkeley before traveling to Sweden for a year to learn weaving. In 1973 one of her artworks was selected for the International Tapestry Biennial in Lausanne, Switzerland, and she exploded onto the global stage.  

Cook pushes the boundaries of traditional textile making, combining weaving with painting, photography and digital technology. She weaves by hand on a computerized loom: The computer raises and lowers the selected warp threads according to a program she writes. Each thread is controlled individually, allowing Cook to depict complex images, such as photographs, with seamless precision.

A vertical textile decorated with 16 woven animated faces.

Created for The Textile Museum’s Sourcing the Museum invitational exhibition, Cook’s Coptic Manga takes inspiration from two very small tapestry fragments in the museum’s collection. Both pieces — one from 6th-century Egypt and one from 6th- or 7th-century Syria — depict human faces at an inch or two in scale. Cook was fascinated by the variety and timelessness of their expressions. One reminded her of the iconic 1930s cartoon character Betty Boop.  

She replicated these faces in Coptic Manga but dramatically altered the scale to create an arresting 4 x 7 foot work, with “Betty Boop” at the center. Similar to an impressionist painting, the piece looks different as you move closer. From a distance, the individual fibers blend to form a unified whole. Up close, the woven structure and individual yarns start to command your attention.  

A long vertical textile fragment with faces of humans and animals.
Band (detail), Syria, 6th-7th century. The Textile Museum Collection 11.31. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1953.
A textile fragment with images of humans
Textile fragment, Egypt, 6th century. The Textile Museum Collection 72.166B. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1948.
A black and white image of a cartoon woman with a large head with the text "Betty Boop."
Title scene from the Betty Boop cartoon series.
Researched by Penelope Pollard

Penelope Pollard has been a docent with the museum since 1998. A retired health policy consultant, she is a member of the Smithsonian Women’s Committee and a docent at Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens in Washington, D.C., and the Burnt Island Lighthouse in Boothbay Harbor, Maine.