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All East Asia

Ceremonial Textile Fragment from Tibet

Ceremonial textile fragment, Tibet, 17th-19th century. Gold leaf, leather, metallic thread, sateen, silk; embroidery, appliqué; 25 x 41 cm. Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection T-1086.

Buddhism came to Tibet from India and China in the 7th century, where it gradually integrated with the Indigenous Tibetan religion. Over the ensuing centuries, Tibetan Buddhism became the dominant religion in Tibet, with the Dalai Lama serving its head.

As a fundamental part of his mission, the Dalai Lama regularly travels around the world leading ritual initiations, called Kalachakra initiations. The Kalachakra mantra banner, a ceremonial textile, hangs at these events. Various forms of the banner can also be found in other public places, private homes or almost anywhere Tibetan Buddhism is practiced.  

Photograph showing the interior of a Tibetan temple with an elevated Buddha figure in the center, and banners hanging from the ceiling in white, red, green, yellow and blue colors.
Rohit Sharma, Tibetan temple, Thupsung Dhargye Ling, in the Himalayan village of Dirang, India. CC BY-SA 4.0.

This ceremonial banner fragment consists of gilded leather mantra script appliquéd with metallic thread onto a sateen woven ground. Seven interwoven letters stand for the seven words of the Kalachakra mantra: “Ham Ksha Ma La Va Ra Ya.” The mantra purifies a person’s mind, body, emotions and speech. Through meditation on the mantra, one gains deep knowledge and insight.   

A textile flag or banner spelling out a Tibetan mantra. The piece has a dark blue silk sateen ground with gilted leather script appliquéd with metallic thread. The script is a rendering of the Kalachakra mantra.
Photo by Bruce M. White Photography.

The embroidered border was once colorful but is now faded with age. The five colors, always displayed in the same order, represent different elements: blue for heaven, white for air, red for fire, green for water and yellow for earth. These colors are often depicted in the interlaced script of the Kalachakra mantra symbol; however, in this banner the script is appliqued in gilded leather.

The gold details and rare, finely woven silk fabric reflect the banner’s high value and prestige. It would likely have been kept in a protected sacred place such as a temple or shrine, rather than in a home.

Researched by Kathleen Severens

Kathleen Severens has been a docent with the museum since 2010, after retiring from the Department of Justice, Office of Community Dispute Resolution. She was a Peace Corps volunteer in Korea, a teacher in Taipei, Taiwan, and has travelled extensively in Southeast Asia, including India and Nepal. She is a longtime weaver and dyer and is a member of the Chesapeake Weavers Guild.