Before the Russian conquest of 1881, nomadic and seminomadic Turkmen tribes lived independently in the mountains, desert and oases of modern-day Turkmenistan. The Tekke were one of the most populous and influential of these tribes.
This decorative panel, called an “asmalyk,” was likely woven by a Tekke girl in preparation for her wedding. According to tradition, the bride rode to her husband’s camp on her camel, in a covered litter (palanquin) draped with a white curtain to conceal her from view. The camel was festively adorned with small hangings and two large pentagonal panels, hung one on each side to cover its flanks.
This fine asmalyk is woven in wool pile with a design unique to the Tekke tribe. It features offset rows of birds, each one ringed by wedge-shaped leaves or feathers in white and deep blue. The ivory border is woven with the “curled leaf meander” design seen in some Caucasian weavings. Originally this panel would have had tassels hung from a wide, hand-braided border on the vertical sides and bottom.
Decorative camel trappings like this example would have been hung in the new couple’s tent once they were settled and were only lightly used. As a result, some asmalyks have survived in excellent condition.