The Joseon royal court, like others around the world, used pageantry and ritual to assert the legitimacy of its rule. Court ceremonies celebrating marriages, welcoming diplomatic missions and honoring ancestors were elaborate occasions, each involving dozens of courtiers.
High-ranking men wore prescribed clothing for ceremonial events. The most intricate and colorful component was an embroidered silk apron called a “husu,” which was worn on the back of a ceremonial robe. Only the finest materials, workmanship and embroidery techniques were used to create these aprons.
Court clothing clearly communicated the wearer’s political position, and a husu’s materials, colors and ornamental patterns all varied according to rank. Royal family members wore husu with five-colored fringe, while court officials were assigned only blue fringe. First- and second-rank officials were distinguished by husu with gold rings; officials of the third through ninth ranks were allowed rings of silver or brass.
Detail of court apron (husu).
By the late 19th century, Korea began to enter the modern era, and the influence of trade and conflict with foreign nations led to changing attitudes. This period also saw the disappearance of differentiated ceremonial aprons. This husu from The Textile Museum Collection — like all the non-royal examples that survive — features motifs of cranes, clouds and flowers that were originally reserved for only the highest ranks.
