Dragon robes have a long history in China. Since the Tang dynasty (618-907), Chinese emperors have gifted these luxurious garments — decorated with dragons to symbolize imperial power — to high-ranking men and women in their court. A dragon robe, or “long pao,” could only be worn by its intended recipient. After the wearer’s death, family members would repurpose the fabric for other uses.
This shimmering silk robe was made during the Qing dynasty, when China was ruled by the Manchu people. The cut follows traditional Manchu style and reflects their horse-riding culture. Narrow sleeves open into hoof-shaped cuffs that would have protected the hands of a rider. The sides of the robe are slit so that it could be comfortably worn on horseback.
The design features dragons with five claws on each foot, as well as auspicious symbols such as the “shou” character for “long life.” Qing sumptuary laws restricted five-clawed dragons exclusively to the imperial family, while other members of the court were to wear robes patterned with four-clawed dragons. By the end of the dynasty, however, this rule was routinely ignored.
A robe’s color also reflected the wearer’s rank. Blue robes like this one were typically worn by government officials and low-ranking nobles.
