During the Edo (1615-1868) and Meiji (1868-1912) periods, Japan’s urban centers were frequently ravaged by devastating fires. Cities were densely packed with wooden buildings that featured paper-covered shoji screens and straw tatami mats. With only small, manually operated water pumps, fire brigades would often destroy adjacent houses to create firebreaks and prevent fires from spreading. Many firefighters were carpenters and construction workers who used their knowledge to dismantle buildings with hooked poles and axes. Known for their prowess and bravery, many became urban heroes.
Firemen wore multilayered, decorated cotton coats, along with protective hats, leggings and gloves. These garments were densely stitched to create thick, absorbent material, which was soaked with water for added protection — often weighing up to 70 pounds. Each brigade carried its own unique standard, called a “matoi,” used to signal fire locations.
This cotton fireman’s hat includes a visor and wraparound flaps to protect the face and neck, and features two traditional techniques. The fabric is quilted with double cotton thread using a method known as “sashiko,” a running stitch of equal length and spacing that has been used in Japan for centuries to strengthen, mend or embellish garments. The dyeing technique, “tsutsugaki,” involves drawing designs on the cloth with a paste made from rice flour, water and lime. After dyeing, the paste is washed off, revealing the design. The paste is typically applied through a tube (tsutsu), similar to a piping bag.
The “Ki” in hiragana script at the top of the hat likely represents the first character from the name of the fireman’s brigade, while the star-shaped forms on the sides may be derived from Japanese crests.
Researched by Marcy Wasilewski
Marcy Wasilewski grew up surrounded by textiles in a family of tailors. She has a Masters Degree in Museum Education from George Washington University. Her early museum career was followed by a long career in healthcare administration. She returned to the museum world as a docent in 2014.