Many Tai groups practice Buddhism, but a pre-Buddhist belief in spirits and reverence for ancestors persists. In the northern hills of Laos and Vietnam, Lao-Tai communities have long used handwoven textiles in rituals to connect with spirits, protect against the evil eye and create harmony. The significance of handwoven fabrics at funerals remains strong, even as other traditions have modernized.
The designs of funerary garments help spirits recognize the deceased as members of their clan and welcome them into heaven. When a woman dies, her body is dressed in layers of clothing, including a headcloth, a red blouse, a tube skirt and a “suea hii” — an long outer coat or pullover garment. A woman also wears a suea hii, gifted by her mother-in-law, during the funerals of both her parents. For these ceremonies, some Tai women wear their suea hii inside out so that the colorful stripes and patterns are visible.
Like many suea hii, this example from The Textile Museum Collection features the “naga” or “ngeuak” (snake). Woven with supplementary weft patterning, the motif decorates strips of silk on the front, back and hem of the coat. The snake embodies the spirits of ancestors and reinforces the connection between the living and the dead.
In the past, the suea hii of the deceased was hung on a pole outside of the cemetery. Today, families often keep this garment as a keepsake to pass down to future generations.
Researched by Rebecca Haase
Rebecca Haase has been a docent with the museum since 2007. She previously lived in Hong Kong and Singapore, where she was a docent at the Asian Civilisations Museum. She is also active in the Asian American Forum.