Slightly larger than the state of California, Cameroon is often called “Africa in miniature” for its rich geographic and cultural diversity. The Cameroon Grasslands along the border with Nigeria is home to more than 100 ethnic groups, including the Bamileke, Bamun and Tikar. Each community is overseen by a hereditary king, or Fon.
In this region, hats are highly valued as an important part of national dress. The Fon awards hats to the noble men and, occasionally, women who make up the Council of Elders, as well as to other high-ranking individuals. Known as “ashetu,” these prestige hats denote heritage, wealth and status. In recent times, commoners and even foreigners have sometimes been awarded titles and hats.
Ashetu are made out of cotton, wool or hemp, using a technique described variously as crochet, knitting, twining or knotless netting. This 20th-century example fits snugly on the head and has a flat top and feathered brim that create a halo effect when the wearer leans over. Rings of red, black and natural color may symbolize one’s place in the universe.
Prestige hats are connected to another iconic Grasslands textile, the “ndop” cloth. The Fon traditionally displays this large, indigo resist-dyed textile to create an auspicious setting for his meetings with the Council of Elders. The elders wear prestige hats as they discuss important issues concerning the community, its ceremonies and secret societies.
