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All Islamic World

Kalamkari Hanging from Iran

Kalamkari (qalamkār) hanging; Iran, Isfahan; c. 1850-1900. Cotton; plain weave, wood-block printed; 167 x 104 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 1980.8.5. Gift of Isabel T. Kelly.

The Qajar dynasty in Iran (1779-1925) was a relatively peaceful period. Two long-reigning leaders, Fath ‘Ali Shah and his grandson Nasir al-Din Shar, embraced their power with the luxurious trappings of Persian kingship. While the elder monarch took comfort in tradition, his grandson welcomed technological innovations and goods imported from the West, including fine cotton and textiles.

This decorative hanging was made locally in Iran in the late 19th century. At the time, plain-woven cloth comprised the majority of Qajar textile production. Fabric was decorated using a variety of techniques, including painting, stamping and printing individual patterns with hand-carved wooden blocks. A single color — usually red, blue or yellow — was applied with each block. The Persian word “qalamkār” (or kalamkari) means “pen work,” a reference to the tool used to draw the design on cloth before printing. 
 
This kalamkari textile is rich with concentrated detail. In the center, a large cypress tree appears to grow from a mountain of rocks, possibly symbolizing immortality. Flowers, undulating vines, peacocks and small, teardrop-shaped buta motifs add to the vertical symmetry. Two lions represent fierce animal combat and probably also imperial power. 
 
Similar Iranian and Indian kalamkari hangings created during this period can be found in a handful of collections. While they were probably made with the same techniques and materials, the symmetrical design and block placement of this textile are a result of the artist’s creative discretion. No two artworks are exactly the same.

A painting of a man with elaborate gold and white headdresses and costuming. He is holding a staff and a sword.
“Portrait of Fath ‘Ali Shah Standing” (detail), Iran, 1809-1810. State Hermitage Museum.
A painting of a man sitting down in a red coat and green pants.
Abul Hassan Ghaffari, “Portrait of Nassir al-Din Shah Qajar” (detail), 1854. Musée de Louvre MAO 777.
Researched by Pamela Kaplan

Pamela Kaplan has been a docent with the museum since 2016 after retiring from IBM Corporation. She is a graduate of GW’s Corcoran School of the Arts and Design with a master’s degree in new media photojournalism. Her long-term project and passion is “Silk Stories,” a behind-the-scenes view into silk production and the changing lives of textile producers around the world.