The Manchu people are an ethnic minority group from a region northeast of China. In 1644, they invaded the Chinese empire and established the last imperial dynasty. Over time the Manchu adopted many aspects of Han culture, but they always retained their traditional style of dress.
For Manchu women this meant wearing a full-length robe, such as this beautiful example. Unlike robes worn by Han women, Manchu robes closed down the right side instead of the center and had deep slits from hips to hem. These slits would move as a woman walked to reveal glimpses of the layers of clothes underneath.
This robe is very finely woven and would only have been worn by a member of the ruling class at court. The fabric is a slit tapestry weave, a technique introduced to China in the seventh century that creates distinct color areas by leaving an open slit between colors. Due to this robe’s delicate pattern and the fineness of its metallic and silk threads, these slits are barely visible.
The designs and patterns used in court robes changed with the seasons. This robe features chrysanthemums, an autumn flower, and would only have been worn in the fall. Despite the sumptuous materials and evident skill that went into creating this robe, the colors and imagery would have been considered too informal for official court functions.
