Originally a semi-nomadic tribe from northwestern Canada, the Navajo moved south in the 10th century, settling in the southwestern area of what is now the United States. They learned to weave from the nearby Hopi and Pueblo peoples, and quickly embraced the art as a sacred tradition.
The Navajo became known for their exquisite woven mantles — known as “chief’s blankets” — which were worn by men and women in the tribe and traded with other Native American nations. Navajos are not actually governed by chiefs, but the blankets had a reputation for being so valuable that only chiefs and other wealthy individuals could acquire them.
Chief’s blankets were made by Navajo women of unsurpassed skill. This example features handspun yarns in indigo-dyed and natural shades of wool — materials that Spaniards and Mexicans introduced to the Navajo in the 1600s. The blanket would have been wrapped horizontally around the body and draped over the shoulders so the stripes joined in the front.
The simple striped pattern represents the earliest style of Navajo blankets, known as the “first phase.” More colorful and decorative styles gained popularity in the mid-19th century, especially among Anglo-Americans. Today, first-phase blankets are prized for their beauty and rarity: The Textile Museum Collection example is one of only 50 that survive.
Stanly J. Morrow (1843-1921), “Chief Spotted Tail, Wife and Daughter” (detail), c. 1866. Amon Carter Museum of American Art, Fort Worth, Texas P1967.2731.
