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All Indigenous Americas

Necklace from the Chimu Kingdom

Necklace; Peru, north coast; Chimu style; c. 1350-1450. Reeds, cotton, copper, silver, feathers; metal overlaid with skin, feathers adhered; 12.5 x 26.5 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 1962.30.9B. Museum purchase.

The Chimu (Chimor) Kingdom flourished along Peru’s north coast from around 1250 until the Inca conquest in 1450. It was ruled by ten successive kings, who governed from the imperial capital of Chanchan. As many as 50,000 people lived in this vast adobe city, including thousands of metalworkers, weavers and other skilled artisans. 

Chimu craftsmen made intricate bracelets, cups, crowns and other objects in bronze, copper, gold and silver. Textiles were made from locally grown cotton, which is drought-and insect-resistant and grows naturally in a number of different colors, from white to dark brown. The Chimu were also renowned for their featherwork. 

This Chimu necklace was constructed from a silver sheet base covered on both sides with the feathers of blue-and-yellow macaws (dark blue and yellow), paradise tanagers (chartreuse and turquoise) and other birds. A matching crown — also in The Textile Museum Collection — completes this ceremonial ensemble. 

The feathers were likely collected from birds in the Amazon rainforest, and then brought up and over the Andes Mountains, and back into Chanchan, by a network of traders. The Chimu may also have kept captive macaws for their featherwork. 

A photograph of a brown adobe city.
The ruins of Chanchan, located outside Trujilo, Peru. © ChateauDede/iStock.com.
A photograph of a brightly colored, small bird sitting on a branch.
Paradise tanager. © Thorsten Spoerlein/iStock.com.
Researched by Barbara Szoradi

Barbara Szoradi has been a docent with the museum since 2018. She began weaving and spinning in 1966 and has been interested in textiles ever since. She taught elementary school in the Washington, D.C., area until 2014, and is currently a volunteer at the National Gallery of Art.