Junichi Arai was born into a tradition of fine silk weaving in the city of Kiryu, one of Japan’s ancient textile centers. His family owned a mill making silk obi (sashes), and Arai was immersed in historical weaving techniques from an early age. As an adult, Arai made a name for himself as one of the world’s most innovative textile designers, experimenting with technology, metallic threads, surface design, chemicals, heat and innovative fiber combinations.
Arai’s mastery of technology began in the 1970s when he started incorporating computers into his design and weaving process. In a 1991 interview, he stated, “We must preserve our forebears’ ingenuity, creative spirit and passion. As creators, we cannot hesitate to use modern technology just as craftspeople in the past did.” Arai believed that contemporary weavers have a responsibility to embrace the tools available to them.
In 1984, Arai partnered with Reiko Sudo to found the NUNO Corporation, a textile design firm that integrates advanced technologies with traditional Japanese handcraft. That same year, Arai created this masterful double-woven cloth of wool and nylon yarns. The fabric features seven distinct weave structures that produce gradations from white to gray to black. Its delicate, gauze-like texture is achieved by twisting synthetic nylon fibers with natural wool. Arai referred to this innovative material as “Siro-fil” — a “new generation wool.”
Over his career, Arai earned multiple patents for his innovative processes. The range of his experiments with fashion and furnishing fabrics are represented by 135 fragments in the museum’s Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection, each a testament to his commitment to tradition and invention.
Researched by Barbara Steele
Barbara Steele has been a docent with the museum since 2014. A clinical social worker, she also worked many years in a large high school library. Her interest and appreciation for textiles began at a young age, when her family lived in Egypt and Türkiye.