The Mughal dynasty (1526-1761) was one of the most vibrant periods in the history of the Indian sub-continent. Geographically, the empire linked East and West, and much of its vast wealth was attributable to foreign trade along the Silk Road. Mughal culture blended traditions from Central Asia, Persia and regional India, along with influences from European trading partners.
A decorative “patka,” or sash, was a central element of the elite Mughal man’s wardrobe. It was generally worn over a long robe, wrapped multiple times around the wearer’s waist, and tied with the ends hanging down. In addition to being fashionable, Mughal men could show their wealth by tucking daggers and other objects into their patka.
This early 18th-century example was originally a tapestry shawl — woven in Kashmir with finely spun hair from the undercoat of the Himalayan mountain goat called “tus.” The shawl appears to have been reassembled into its current form, as indicated by joined borders and the horizontal warp of the field. The motif on the end border (pallava) of a flowering bush with red blossoms and tiny yellow rosettes was likely inspired by the native flora of the Kashmir Valley.
Mughal leaders were mostly Muslim, but they promoted religious tolerance across their realm. The patka was worn by upper-class Muslims, Hindus and other citizens alike.
