Sioux tribes traditionally moved from place to place across the northern Great Plains — today’s Minnesota, Wisconsin and the Dakotas — following herds of bison. They were known for their hunting and warrior culture, but also for their masterful quillwork.
Porcupine-quill embroidery was a sacred art, and only select women had the right to practice it. These spiritually inspired women adorned ceremonial objects and clothing using simple tools: an awl to pierce holes, and sinew thread. Each design was unique and considered the personal property of the creator. Quill workers were revered within their communities for their extraordinary dexterity, knowledge of natural dyes and mastery of complex techniques.
This boy’s vest was made at the turn of the 20th century by an Eastern Sioux woman living on a reservation. The large floral motif is typical of the Eastern Sioux, and distinct from the geometric designs used by the western tribes. In the 19th century, women started replacing quills with commercially produced beads, which were cheaper and easier to use. The maker of this vest chose the labor-intensive tradition of quilling.
Today, tribal elders value quill embroidery more highly than beadwork, but there are only a handful of individuals who carry on the tradition. These women teach their children quilling in the hopes that this unique art form will endure.
