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All Islamic World

Velvet Fragment from Iran

Velvet textile fragment (detail); Iran, Yazd; c. 1600-1650. Silk, metallic wrapped thread; supplementary-warp cut pile, supplementary-weft patterning; 124 x 70 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 3.206. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1932.

The Safavids ruled what is now Iran from 1501 to 1722, uniting much of the region under a single governance and reasserting its Iranian identity. They also centralized the production of silk, giving rise to one of the richest eras of textile production in Islamic history. 
 
When this velvet panel was made in the early 17th century, Iranian loom weaving was at its height. Weavers in the urban workshops of Isfahan, Kashan and Yazd produced silk textiles, including velvets of unmatched quality with designs inspired by the world around them — architectural details, book illuminations and nature. 

A light brown textile with vertical floral elements in pale green, blue, gray, and black.

Textiles produced for the European market were typically decorated with stylized flowers and vegetation. This example features rows of flowering plants with their sinuous leaves growing at the edge of swirling pools of water. Three or more varieties of flowers grow from each stem. The weaver juxtaposed areas of plush cut pile with areas of flat satin weave to accentuate the design. 
 
Now faded with age, this textile would have stunned when new. The sheen of the velvet would have given the vivid colors wonderful depth. The effect would have been heightened by the metallic wrapped threads that are woven into the pools and the background.

Researched by Penelope Pollard

Penelope Pollard has been a docent with the museum since 1998. A retired health policy consultant, she is a member of the Smithsonian Women’s Committee and a docent at Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens in Washington, D.C., and the Burnt Island Lighthouse in Boothbay Harbor, Maine.