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All Southeast Asia

Yao Hat from Thailand

Hat, Thailand, Yao people, 20th century. Cotton, aluminum discs; cross-stitch embroidery; 14 x 22 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 2017.3.1. Gift of Gretchen Primack.

The mountains of northern Thailand are home to seven hill tribes who trace their origins back thousands of years to southern and southwest China. The Yao (also known as Mien) are one of these groups, with their own distinct language and culture. Most make their living as farmers, but they are also known to be expert weavers, dyers and embroiderers.  

Yao men, women and children wear hats in a wide variety of styles as part of their traditional clothing. Some of these are practical, such as the light, straw hats that provide shade when working in the fields. Others are elaborate, ranging from embroidered everyday hats that symbolically ward off evil to ceremonial headdresses for weddings and festivals.

This traditional child’s cap features vivid red pompoms that were thought to protect against tiger attacks and other dangers. Colorful designs are embroidered on cotton “monk’s cloth,” dyed black. Monk’s cloth is a centuries-old weaving pattern that uses a loose, over-and-under, four-strand basket weave to create a durable fabric suited to embroidery. Here, intricate cross- and grid-stitching combine to portray symbols of daily life and surroundings, including mountains, houses, animals and flowers.  

Three women walk in a field in elaborate pink outfits, the middle woman holding an umbrella.
A traditional Yao wedding in Chiang Rai, Thailand. © ShutterXorx/iStock.com.
The face of a child wearing a hat.
Yao baby wearing handmade hat. © Chrisdunham/Dreamstime.com.
Researched by Capie Polk Baily

Capie Polk Baily joined the museum as a docent in 2006 and stayed connected while serving overseas with the U.S. Department of State in Thailand, Turkey, the Netherlands and North Macedonia.