India’s genius for printing and dyeing cotton cloth in brilliant, intricate designs was a cornerstone of the flourishing spice trade in the 16th to the 18th centuries. First the Portuguese, and then the English, French and, above all, the Dutch prospered as they sailed the seas of South and East Asia, trading these valuable goods. For centuries, India’s Coromandel Coast was home to the gifted weavers and dyers of these coveted fabrics.
This textile fragment with its unconventional imagery is an unusual example of “sarasa” trade cloth. Likely made for sale in Japan, where “sarasa” meant calico or chintz, it would have appealed to a wealthy customer with a taste for Chinoiserie (note the dark background) and for exoticism.
The unusual designs might be a fanciful depiction of an imaginary setting. Feisty men with umbrellas, palanquins and dragon/horse-like beasts stand in vivid contrast to their black surroundings. A mystifying jumble of strange creatures, mythic birds, leafy trees and twisting vines share the space. This fragment may have been part of a decorative, household item, such as a pouch, pillow cover, wrapping cloth or possibly a small wall hanging.
Detail of sarasa trade cloth.
Over time, the Japanese — equally expert at printing and dyeing fabric — developed their own domestic production of sarasa cloth to make it available more widely at more affordable prices. Yet it was Indian skill and creativity that dominated the textile-spice trade for many centuries and exerted an enduring influence over fabric design from East Asia to the Americas.
