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All Indigenous Americas

Headcloth from Guatemala

Man’s headcloth (tzute), Guatemala, Dept. Quiché, Chichicastenango, c. 1900. Cotton, silk, beads; warp-faced plain weave, brocaded; 70 x 69 cm. The Textile Museum Collection 89.1. Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1937.

Over 1,000 years ago, the Maya civilization was a powerful force in Mesoamerica, occupying large swaths of modern-day Mexico and Central America. Its diverse peoples built elaborate stone cities and developed sophisticated calendars and mathematical systems. Their descendants include the Quiché Maya, who live in the highland plains of central Guatemala.

Weaving and textiles are central to Quiché Maya culture and identity. Men and women traditionally use distinctive square cloths, called “tzutes,” to protect their heads from the sun, carry food or use in religious ceremonies. Women weave tzutes on backstrap looms and enliven them with colorful patterns that indicate the wearer’s status or village.

The intricate designs on this ceremonial tzute suggest that it belonged to a ranking official. He would have worn it folded in half at the diagonal, with the fold placed low over his forehead and the two side ends tied to the ends on the back. The cloth is made up of two handwoven cotton rectangles joined with a narrow decorative band of lavender and peach silk stitching. Silk floss tassels, some with crystal beads, are attached to each corner.

Striking figures of animals, roosters and other birds are woven in red from a synthetic, madder-derived dye. The large animals shown in motion may represent horses or deer — an animal with symbolic significance for the Maya that is still featured in festivals and ritual dances.

Researched by Marcy Wasilewski

Marcy Wasilewski grew up surrounded by textiles in a family of tailors. She has a master’s degree in museum education from the George Washington University. Her early museum career was followed by a long career in healthcare administration. She returned to the museum world as a docent in 2014.