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Tapestry Fragment from Belgium

Textile fragment, Belgium, 17th century. Wool, linen; tapestry weave; 30 x 38 cm. The Cotsen Textile Traces Study Collection T-0442b.

Many royal, wealthy and even middle-class homes across 17th-century Europe featured large Flemish tapestries of wool, linen, silk and occasionally metallic threads. By the mid-1600s, Brussels was the center of European tapestry production and trade, bringing income and prestige to the region. This fragment likely comes from an elaborate tapestry border, a popular design element at the time.  

Tapestry weavers worked from full-scale preparatory design models (cartoons) based on paintings by contemporary Flemish artists such as Peter Paul Rubens. The designs depicted rounded figures and more billowy fabrics than earlier tapestries from the 14th through 16th centuries. In this example, the charming boy sitting on a garden wall with his horn reflects the baroque style of the time.

Photo by Bruce M. White Photography.

The weave structure of this fragment includes slit, interlocking and dovetailed tapestry stitches, as well as fine threads connecting the slits to add stability for the heavy tapestry when hanging. Hachures, or short lines of yarns, produced color blends and the appearance of shading from a distance, as well as dimensionality in the image.

The quality of a tapestry depended on the caliber of the cartoon from which it was designed, the skill of the weavers, the number of warp threads per inch and the value of the materials. Here, the colors in the wool still appear quite vivid. The blue yarns were likely dyed with woad, a European plant, or possibly more costly imported indigo.

Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) designer, workshop of Filippe Maƫcht and Hans Tay; Tapestry showing the Marriage of Constantine and Fausta; Paris, France; 1623-1625. Wool, silk, metallic threads; 485 x 608 cm. Philadelphia Museum of Art 1959-78-2. Gift of the Samuel H. Kress Foundation, 1959.
Researched by Barbara Steele

Barbara Steele has been a docent with the museum since 2014. A clinical social worker, she also worked many years in a large high school library. Her interest and appreciation for textiles began at a young age, when her family lived in Egypt and Turkey.